Quick answer: In her 2024 roundup, licensed esthetician Nikol Johnson flags five skincare trends worth skipping: "medical grade" marketing claims, "Botox in a bottle" products, one-size-fits-all retinoids, deeply discounted injectable deals, and DIY sunscreen. Her advice is to focus on proven ingredients, realistic expectations, and quality over hype — and to always patch-test new products and consult a licensed professional before treatments.
Key takeaways
- "Medical grade" is a marketing phrase with no regulatory meaning — read the ingredient list, not the label.
- There is no true "Botox in a bottle"; a topical product cannot replicate an injectable neurotoxin.
- Retinoids are not one-size-fits-all and can irritate sensitive or very young skin.
- Deeply discounted injectables can signal cut corners — prioritize quality and safety over price.
- Never DIY your sunscreen; SPF is complex, FDA-regulated, and your first line of defense.
Hey ladies! Trends move fast on social media, and as a licensed esthetician Nikol has watched plenty come and go. In this short video she reacts to a dermatologist's article on the worst skincare trends of 2024 — the fads she thinks are worth skipping, especially if your skin is mature or easily irritated.
Why trust an esthetician's take on skincare trends?
Nikol spent years working alongside a dermatologist and running her own studio, where she performed treatments like lash extensions and permanent makeup for over a decade. That hands-on experience is exactly why she is cautious about viral claims: so much of skincare marketing is unregulated, so a confident-sounding buzzword on the packaging does not always mean the product is better for your skin.
Which 2024 skincare trends made the worst list?
Here are the five trends Nikol and the dermatologist's article call out, and why:
- "Medical grade" ingredients. This term is largely a marketing construct with no medical or regulatory significance. Products may contain higher concentrations of an active, but that is a brand choice, not proof of efficacy. Many over-the-counter options work just as well and can be better tolerated — so judge a product by its ingredients and formulation, not the label.
- "Botox in a bottle." There is no such thing. Botox works by blocking nerve signals to muscles, an effect that cannot be achieved with a topical product. When a brand promises "Botox in a bottle" results, keep your expectations realistic and remember that a simple, consistent routine tends to beat piling on product after product.
- Retinoids for everyone. Nikol was troubled to see tweens and teens using strong retinoids. These ingredients are not a one-size-fits-all fix and can cause irritation. Rather than copying content creators, pay attention to how your own skin responds and be diligent before adopting any trend.
- Special deals on injectables. Steep discounts on injectables are a red flag. As the article notes, injectables are medical treatments that require careful consideration and skilled application, and bargain pricing can indicate lower standards. Nikol saw the same pattern in her studio, where clients who chased the cheapest lash or beauty services often ended up needing corrective work.
- DIY sunscreen. Homemade sunscreen is not only ineffective, it can be dangerous. SPF formulas are complex, require precise formulation for consistent protection, and are regulated by the FDA — which is why you cannot safely mix your own. Sunscreen is your first line of defense against sun damage, so leave it to properly formulated products.
This is general education, not medical advice. Patch-test any new product, and talk to a board-certified dermatologist or licensed professional before starting actives like retinoids or booking any injectable or in-office treatment.
What should you focus on instead?
- Consistency over chasing every new viral product.
- Gentle, proven basics: cleanse, hydrate, and protect with a daily, properly formulated SPF.
- Ingredient quality and formulation rather than buzzwords on the packaging.
- Listening to your own skin instead of one-size-fits-all advice from social media.
The bottom line
The best routine is gentle, consistent, and tailored to you — not dictated by whatever is trending. Once your skin is happy and cared for, a light, radiant makeup look is the easy finishing touch. Explore Nikol's best sellers, face essentials, and classics to keep things simple and glowing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What were the worst skincare trends of 2024?
Nikol highlights five: "medical grade" marketing claims, "Botox in a bottle" products, using retinoids on everyone (including young skin), heavily discounted injectable deals, and DIY sunscreen. Her overall theme is to ignore hype, keep expectations realistic, and choose quality and proven ingredients over buzzwords and bargains.
Is "medical grade" skincare actually better?
Not necessarily. "Medical grade" is a marketing term with no regulatory meaning. Such products sometimes contain higher active concentrations, but that is a brand decision, not a guarantee of results. Many over-the-counter products perform just as well and can be gentler, so focus on the ingredient list and formulation rather than the label.
Can a cream really work like "Botox in a bottle"?
No. Botox works by blocking nerve signals so muscles cannot contract, and that effect is not achievable with a topical product. Any cream marketed as "Botox in a bottle" cannot deliver injectable results. Keep expectations realistic, and if you are considering injectables, consult a qualified medical professional.
Are retinoids right for everyone?
No. Retinoids are not a one-size-fits-all ingredient and can cause irritation, particularly for sensitive or very young skin. Nikol suggests watching how your own skin reacts rather than copying trends. Introduce actives slowly, patch-test first, and check with a dermatologist about what is appropriate for you.
Why should you avoid DIY sunscreen?
Because homemade sunscreen is both ineffective and potentially dangerous. SPF formulas are complex, need precise formulation for consistent protection, and are FDA-regulated, so they cannot be safely recreated at home. Sunscreen is your first line of defense against sun damage, so always choose a properly formulated, tested product.
Are discounted injectables a red flag?
Often, yes. Injectables are medical treatments that require careful consideration and skilled application, and steep discounts can signal lower standards or an incentive-driven clinic. Nikol emphasizes quality and safety over price. If you pursue any injectable, research the provider carefully and prioritize credentials over cost.
