Dark Circles: A Mature-Eye Correction Method, Step by Step

To correct dark circles on mature eyes, hydrate the under-eye area first, then neutralize discoloration with a color corrector before applying concealer so it doesn't turn ashy. Follow with an eye primer so eyeshadow colors stay true, then set everything with a light brightening powder.

Key takeaways

1. Color correct before you conceal, or concealer can turn an ashy, muddy gray over dark circles.
2. Dark circles can come from lifestyle factors like dehydration, lack of sleep, sun exposure, or rubbing your eyes, not just from aging.
3. A thin, well-absorbed eye serum under a cooling eye treatment preps skin so concealer doesn't slip or crease later.
4. An eye primer under eyeshadow keeps your palette's true colors from mixing with discoloration already on the lid.
5. Apply concealer only where you need it instead of all over, so you don't end up wearing more makeup than necessary.
6. Setting cream eye products with a light brightening powder prevents creasing without a heavy, powdery look.

Nikol's step-by-step routine

1. Prep the under-eye area with a thin, fast-absorbing eye serum, then press on silicone eye pads such as These Bags Are Designer-Eye Mask to push the serum into the skin; a Cooling Eye Roller can also be used afterward for extra circulation.
2. Sweep a thin layer of Fiercely Smooth Face Primer under the eyes to smooth the application.
3. Use Just Peachy Color Corrector on the darkest areas under the eyes, staying close to the darkness rather than going all the way to the lash line.
4. Target redness or broken capillaries, such as around the nose, with No Redness Color Corrector.
5. Apply Creamy Concealer with the Concealer Brush, starting at the base and working up into the inner corner only where needed.
6. Buff concealer in with the Foundation Buffing Brush for a seamless, diffused finish, pressing with fingers if needed.
7. Apply Eye Primer over the lid by tapping (not swirling) product on, starting in the center and building outward, to neutralize discoloration before eyeshadow.
8. Set the eye primer with Nikita Banana Brightening Powder pressed on with a powder brush.
9. Use the Eye Brightener pen to spot-brighten the inner corners or any remaining dark spots, then blend with the Concealer Brush.
10. Add a little more Creamy Concealer only where darkness still shows, buffing it in with the Concealer Brush.
11. Curl lashes, then apply Volume UP Mascara on top and bottom lashes.
12. Fill in brows with Skinny Brow Pencil, using the Nikol Beauty Precision Eyebrow Stencils as a guide if needed, then brush through with Brow Mascara.
13. Soft-set the whole eye area with Nikita Banana Brightening Powder using the Nikol Beauty Eyeshadow Blending Brush for a light, non-cakey finish.

Why do mature women get dark circles under their eyes?

Nikol explains that dark circles underneath the eyes aren't automatic just because you're a mature woman. They come from a mix of causes, including lifestyle, lack of sleep, dehydration, sun exposure, smoking, sleeping flat instead of with your head elevated, and even tugging or rubbing your eyes. Genetics can play a role too.

She's clear that no single eye cream will eradicate dark circles completely. Products can help improve pigmentation over time, but if skincare alone isn't getting you where you want to be, that's where makeup techniques like color correcting come in.

How should you prep under-eyes before applying makeup?

Nikol starts with a thin eye serum applied without rubbing it in, then presses on a cooling under-eye treatment like These Bags Are Designer-Eye Mask (left on for 5-10 minutes when time allows) to push the serum into the skin. She also demonstrates the Cooling Eye Roller for an extra circulation boost.

She stresses using a thin serum rather than a heavy cream so the product fully absorbs. If a cream doesn't absorb and leaves slip, concealer won't set properly on top of it later.

Why should you color correct before applying concealer?

Nikol's main teaching point: always correct the color first, then conceal. If you skip this step, concealer applied straight over dark circles can look ashy or clay-colored because the concealer is trying to do too much on its own.

She applies a thin layer of Fiercely Smooth Face Primer under the eyes first for smooth application, then uses Just Peachy Color Corrector on the darkest areas, working close to the discoloration without going all the way up to the lash line (to avoid concentrating too much product in one small area). For redness or broken capillaries, she switches to No Redness Color Corrector.

How do you apply concealer without it looking heavy or cakey?

Once the color is corrected, Nikol uses the Concealer Brush to apply Creamy Concealer starting at the base of the discoloration and working up into the inner corner, keeping the product only where it's needed rather than spreading it across the whole under-eye.

She then buffs with the Foundation Buffing Brush (or fingers) to diffuse the product so pigmentation looks softened rather than fully covered. Because the color was already corrected, she notes you often need much less concealer than you'd think.

Do you need an eye primer if you're not wearing eyeshadow?

Nikol explains that eyelid discoloration will mix with eyeshadow and change the color you see in the palette, so an eye primer is used to neutralize the lid before color is added. She taps (never swirls) Eye Primer onto the center of the lid first, then blends outward so she can control how much product goes on.

Even without eyeshadow on this particular day, she still sets the primer with a light dusting of Nikita Banana Brightening Powder using a powder brush, since a cream primer left unset can crease into the eyelid's natural fold.

How do you brighten and finish the eye area?

For extra brightness, Nikol uses the Eye Brightener pen in the inner corners and any remaining dark spots, blending it in with the Concealer Brush. She adds a touch more Creamy Concealer only where darkness is still visible, keeping application targeted rather than heavy.

To finish, she curls lashes and applies Volume UP Mascara on top and bottom lashes, fills in brows with Skinny Brow Pencil (using the Nikol Beauty Precision Eyebrow Stencils as a guide if needed), brushes brows with Brow Mascara, and does a final soft-set over the eye area with Nikita Banana Brightening Powder using the Nikol Beauty Eyeshadow Blending Brush.

Shop the look

Nikol uses These Bags Are Designer-Eye Mask, Cooling Eye Roller, Fiercely Smooth Face Primer, Just Peachy Color Corrector. Explore the eyes collection for more of the pro-aging makeup she created for women over 40.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my concealer look ashy or gray over dark circles?

Nikol explains this happens when you skip color correcting first. The darkness mixes with the concealer and creates a muddy or clay-colored result, so correcting the color underneath lets the concealer do its job properly.

What actually causes dark circles under the eyes?

According to Nikol, causes include lifestyle factors like dehydration, lack of sleep, sun exposure, smoking, sleeping flat, and rubbing or tugging the eyes, along with genetics. It isn't simply a result of being a mature woman.

Do I need to use an eye primer if I'm not wearing eyeshadow?

Nikol still sets her eye primer with a brightening powder even without eyeshadow, since a cream primer left bare can crease into the natural eyelid fold.

Can I skip concealer and just use a color corrector?

Nikol notes that many people can get away with just the color corrector depending on their coverage needs, and only add concealer on days they want more coverage, such as if they have allergies.

Where should color corrector be placed under the eyes?

Nikol applies it close to the visible darkness rather than all the way up to the lash line, since placing too much right at the lash line can make the product move or concentrate unevenly.